As Texans, we know all too well what it feels like to get painted with a broad brush (come on, we don’t ride horses everywhere) and that’s why it surprises me when we whip out our broad brushes for our Mexican neighbors to the south.
The truth is, Mexico is about as eclectic as the United States. The terrain, cuisine, music, and people themselves vary from state to state, and there’s so much to explore. I’ve been heading across the border for about my whole life, and still feel like I’m at the tip of the iceberg when it comes to exploring Mexico to its fullest.
Recently, Goode Company opened its fourth location of Kitchen & Cantina, and this one’s a little bit different. Sure, we’ll still offer our take on the culinary collision between Texan and Mexican cultures, but we’ll also be exploring a different collision through Bar Buena—an agave-forward watering hole inspired by two different states in Mexico: Jalisco and Oaxaca.
As for the states themselves, they’re far too big to fully explore here. Instead, let’s take a look at how each inspired Bar Buena and why they were its inspiration. Spoiler: it’s because I love both and, after visiting Bar Buena, I hope you will too.
Hues of Jalisco
When many of us think of Mexico, there’s a good chance we’re thinking about Jalisco. Culturally, it’s one of the most prominent states in the country—known for its tequila, mariachi music, birrierias, and so much more. Guadalajara, its capital, is a very modern city as well, a tech hub for many large companies and all of the art, music, and endless shopping opportunities that come with a world-class destination.
But, forget all that. We’re here for the tequila. When you venture to the highlands outside of Guadalajara, you’ll begin to see oceans of blue weber agave plants, all growing for the sole purpose of becoming the world’s finest tequila. Full stop. If you’re interested in tequila, you’ll be interested in Jalisco, and that’s the first way it informed the decisions behind Bar Buena.
Our menu is stacked with tequila offerings that reflect both traditional and more unique expressions of Jaliscan culture, from a classic paloma to more adventurous options like the espresso-fueled Cariña. Behind the bar, I dare anyone to find a better selection of high-quality tequila sourced straight from the Jaliscan highlands.
When you venture to the highlands outside of Guadalajara, you’ll begin to see oceans of blue weber agave plants, all growing for the sole purpose of becoming the world’s finest tequila.
Beyond bebidas, Jalisco is a great place to find a few treasures. In fact, I’ve been heading down to Jalisco for years to source antiques and ephemera for many of Goode Company’s restaurants, and it’s become quite the pilgrimage. Like many other metropolitan areas in Mexico, it’s bordered by rural regions with a deep history, and many of its citizens are happy to sell their wares to travelers like myself. When you walk in, you'll see it—from the ancient molcajetes to the tree inspired by one of my favorite restaurants in Guadalajara. It’s not an imitation or a recreation, but simply a love letter to a region that I’ve fallen in love with.
If you want to explore the real thing, check out my three-day guide to Guadalajara.
Halfway to Oaxaca
We’ve still only told half of the story behind Bar Buena. If you head about 600 miles southeast from Jalisco, you’ll eventually run into Oaxaca, the 10th largest state in the country. Its capital is also called Oaxaca, a city of more than 250,000 people (for comparison, Guadalajara is home to 1.3 million Mexicans).
Overall, Oaxaca is the perfect yin to Jalisco’s yang. It’s more sparsely populated, quieter, more remote, and a little wilder overall—much like mezcal, the other half of the agave equation behind Bar Buena. Oaxaca is renowned for producing some of the best in the world.
Overall, Oaxaca is the perfect yin to Jalisco’s yang. It’s more sparsely populated, quieter, more remote, and a little wilder overall—much like mezcal, the other half of the agave equation behind Bar Buena.
There’s a long and interesting history behind mezcal and tequila, so be sure to read this article delving into the differences. But, the shortest definition is that tequila must be made from one species of agave (blue weber) and mezcal can be made from anywhere between 35 and 37 different species of agave and in just about any combination.
This means that agave is a much more varied form of liquor, and that’s why I love it so much. You can get clean, crisp flavors similar to tequila, find smoky variations, or others that are more earthy or savory. But, what I really love about mezcal is its history and culture. This drink pre-dates the hispanic era in Mexico and has been made by indigenous people for more than 2,500 years. Whenever I take a sip, I can almost taste the generational knowledge passed down from ancient times, and you can too through the pretty damn extensive selection at Bar Buena. I’m particularly excited about our Una Amargo cocktail featuring lemongrass mezcal, as well as our Oaxacan Old-Fashioned, which features both mezcal and tequila.
Essentially, mezcal is an artform in Oaxaca, just one of many artforms celebrated in the state. Most people don’t know that the city of Oaxaca is a thriving home for artists, chefs, musicians, and countless other creative individuals. Combined with its natural beauty and diverse ecosystem, its striking aesthetics couldn’t help but shape the look of Bar Buena.
You’ll find traditional offerings. You’ll find some eccentric new ones. You’ll find Lone Star and Shiner, too. But, what you’ll also find is a deep love and appreciation for Mexico and the incredible people who live in Oaxaca and Jalisco.
As most homages go, Bar Buena isn’t meant to mimic or replicate. It’s its own thing, a combination of my experiences in Jalisco and Oaxaca, as well as my background across the Rio Grande and into Texas. You’ll find traditional offerings. You’ll find some eccentric new ones. You’ll find Lone Star and Shiner, too. But, what you’ll also find is a deep love and appreciation for Mexico and the incredible people who live in Oaxaca and Jalisco.
In a way, Bar Buena is a reminder that these two states are real places with real people who make things, work hard, and celebrate a rich cultural history that dates back to well before ‘Texas’ was even a word. So, go ahead and book a table. Consider it your primer to both Jalisco and Oaxaca before you book a ticket to see them in person. As Texans know, there’s nothing like the real deal.
Photography by Steve Schwartz.